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The main Boise daily includes a New Basque Cuisine restaurant in his New Year wish list

12/30/2017

Typical pintxos and classic dishes on sale at the Basque Market in Boise (photoEuskalKultura.com)
Typical pintxos and classic dishes on sale at the Basque Market in Boise (photoEuskalKultura.com)

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The New Year is around the corner and everyone is making wishes along with James Patrick Kelly, food critic for the Idaho Statesman, the main paper in Boise who was not going to be outdone: he wants a New Basque Cuisine Restaurant.  The journalist argues that the “City of Trees” has good establishments for traditional Basque cooking, but that he misses a more creative step.  Who knows if Santa Claus or Olentzero will listen to him and make his wish come true? 

Boise, ID.   What is certain is that Boise does have an active Basque community, and that there are Basque food offerings, and even Basque cooking lessons, and cooking demonstrations…..traditional.  This is why James Patrick Kelly, in his wish list for 2017 includes, among other requests, the opening of a new establishment which would increase the Basque offerings in this city whose sister-city is Gernika.

Kelly says that “being a city known for traditional Basque cooking, it is surprising that there is not contemporary Basque food to enjoy.  It is clear that everyone enjoys croquetas or tongue in tomato sauce at Bar Gernika, Leku Ona or Epi’s in Meridian, but contemporary Basque cooking is absent in the local gastronomic scene,” he complains.

This reminds us that Boise lost a restaurant that served as a reference at different levels, the Oñati, owned by Oñatian Jesus Alcelay, that also served traditional food.  Jesus continues in Boise, father and grandfather of Boisean kids, and cook at the local Euzkaldunak Basque club, as well as at the cottonwood Grille restaurant with fresh ingredients and good dishes, although still lacking what Kelly is talking about.

The city also has cooking classes and demonstrations and Basque recipes at the Basque Market by Tara McElhose-Eiguren and Tony Eiguren, following the tradition begun by Dan Ansotegui, there as well as at the Bar Gernika.

But Kelly includes his own references, the critic has a good memory of Joseba Jimenez a chef from Donostia who lives in Thailand today, and who for some years had a Basque restaurant in Seattle.  “In Seattle, the Harvest Vine was a popular place for dinner since its premier on Madison Street in the late 1990s.  The restaurant focused on tapas and was co-founded by Chef Joseba Jimenez de Jimenez who passed the torch to Chef Joey Serquinia a decade ago.”

“Serquinia’s vision of contemporary Basque cuisine, is tinged with French influence, its menus always evolve and adjust to the season.  For example, at this time of the year, it is all about hot foie gras with membrillo purée and arrope (reduction of syrupy grapes), roasted trout with piperade and grilled venison with oyster mushrooms and licorice root sauce. Mmm.”

“Chef Nate Whitley at the Modern Hotel and Bar in the Linen District in Boise occasionally offers more contemporary dishes of Basque inspiration on his menu that is forever changing,” but finally he makes his wish and request: “I could totally see a Basque-French fusion concept being successful in Boise, maybe in one of the local hotels,” he concludes saying “I hope that Santa is listening.”

Hala bedi (so be it).



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